The Parlor Palm (botanical name Chamaedorea elegans) originally comes from Central America (native to the rainforests of southern Mexico and Guatemala), but it has become a popular indoor plant here in the United States. They can grow up to 6 feet indoors and live for decades in a house as an indoor tree, and when thriving outside, can grow up to a mature size of 16 feet tall.

While these evergreen plants are not true lilies (from the Spathiphyllum species), most peace lilies can grow to be between 1-4′ wide and come from the tropical regions of Central and South America. They are a member of the Araceae family and as long as they get enough light, they will produce elegant white blooms starting in the early summer and may continue to bloom throughout the year.

These tropical plants are not happy in the cold, so they can only be grown outside in a warmer and more humid climate like in USDA Zones 10-12. We’ll show you how to keep these popular indoor palms happy with the right climate and care.

Related: Learn to Care for Pilea Plants, How to Grow and Care for Peace Lilies, Calathea, Monstera Plants, Aglaonema-Chinese Evergreen, Spider Plants, Fiddle Leaf Figs, Golden Pothos, Jade Plants, Snake Plants, Rubber Trees, Dieffenbachia, Money Trees, Orchids, and String of Pearls Plants.

Why are they called Parlor Palms?

Parlor Palms were first popularized in the Victorian era and get their name from their smaller size because when grown indoors they can fit into your “parlor” (a fancy old-time name for a living or sitting room) better than a larger tropical variety. They have thin trunks that grow grouped together full of delicate green fronds that create a beautiful lush foliage and are one of the best types of palms for beginners.

How often should I water Parlor Palm plants?

You’ll want to give your Parlor Palm a good full drink when you do water it, but let it dry out in between waterings. You can stick your finger in the top inch of soil to check how damp the soil is and wait until it feels mostly dry before watering again (try every 1-2 weeks to start and see if your plant responds well to that). Parlor Palms enjoy moist soil but are susceptible to root rot from overwatering, so make sure the planter you use has drainage holes to release excess water and don’t let the plant sit in standing water if there’s water in the draining tray. Using a well-draining potting mix also is crucial in guiding extra water away from the roots.

Under watering can also effect Parlor Palm foliage, so keep an eye on the leaves as they will start to wither when it needs some water. So if your plant fronds start shriveling about a week after watering, then you’ll start to get an idea of how often to water. You’ll have to water more often if your plant is near brighter light conditions, and less in lower light spots.

Parlor Palms are sensitive to tap water, so if you can’t use distilled, filtered, or rainwater, then let your tap water sit out overnight and that will allow the chlorine to dissipate.

How much sunlight do Parlor Palms need?

While they are considered to be a “low light plant,” the Parlor Palm’s natural habitat provides dappled light that is filtered through the rainforest canopy of trees. While Parlor Palms enjoy medium to bright indirect sunlight, they are a good plant to choose for low light areas as they can also do well in low indirect light (sun exposure from a north-facing window can be ideal.)

You’ll also want to dust your fronds occasionally as too much dust on the plant’s leaves can inhibit photosynthesis. Rotate the plant every so often as well so the plant’s shape grows evenly and check the underside for pests. Avoid direct sunlight on the plant as that can scorch their leaves.

Should I fertilize Parlor Palms?

Parlor Palms don’t need much fertilizer, but you can use a slow-release fertilizer applied sparingly at a much smaller dose than instructed to fertilize through the growing season (spring and summer) every other month.

Skip feeding your plant during the fall and winter months.

Potting and Repotting Parlor Palm plants

Parlor Palms are a slow growing variety, so if you repot into a slightly larger pot every two years, you shouldn’t have issues with the plant becoming root bound.

Choose a pot that is only about 2″ bigger than the current size as too big a pot will hold too much moisture for the plant and promote root rot. While it’s best to re-pot during the growing months of the year (spring and summer), repotting can be done at any time of the year. You’ll want an acidic to neutral good soil that combines drainage and moisture retention or you can buy more all-purpose potting soil and add in some peat moss, sand, or perlite for extra drainage.

Peat moss to promote soil drainage

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Organic pearlite to enhance drainage

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All-purpose potting mix for plants

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Temperature and humidity for Parlor Palms

Ideal indoor temperatures for Parlor Palms are between 65°F and 75°F and you’ll want to keep them away from vents and cold drafts from doors or windows. If you keep a potted plant outside, make sure to bring it in once temperatures dip into the 50°s.

Being a tropical plant, peace lilies enjoy medium humidity levels, although they can usually thrive with average humidity in a home. If you want to raise the humidity in your home, you can use a humidifier nearby or place the plant on top of gravel on a tray and then pour some water into the gravel (which will create humidity around the plant as it evaporates). Just make sure the water level is below the gravel so the plant is not sitting directly in water.

Plants that enjoy humidity usually are happy in a bathroom as long as there is adequate light in the space.

Pruning Parlor Palms

Parlor Palms are slow growers, and while you can cut off fronds that have dried out or turned yellow or brown, it’s not necessary to prune your Parlor Palm.

Propagating Parlor Palms

While there are lots of plants than can be propagated (see this plant propagation post for more details), the Parlor Palm is actually not one that we recommend you propagate at home. The plants are grown in clumps for aesthetic reasons but don’t grow that way in nature. Division of the roots into two plants will put the plant under a lot of stress that it may not survive, and they cannot be grown for a stem or leaf cutting.

As they are generally propagated from seed by professionals, it’s recommended to simply buy a new plant if you want to add more Parlor Palms to your home.

If you want to give division a try with your Parlor Palm and hope for the best, you can follow these steps below:

1. Gently remove the Parlor Plant from its pot.
2. Use a sterile cutting tool to cut the root ball in half, making sure each side has healthy looking roots.
3. Plant each section into a pot just a little bigger than the plant with fresh potting soil to fill in gaps.
4. Water as needed making sure to let soil dry out between waterings and place in bright indirect light between 65°F and 75°F until roots are established.

Common varieties of Parlor Palms:

‘Chamaedorea elegans ‘Bella’‘: The most popular indoor variety, dense, vibrant green fronds grow from thin arched stems and clusters of tiny yellow flowers can appear after years of growth.

‘Chamaedorea erumpens’: Native to Guatemala and Honduras, this is a bamboo palm with smooth green leaves than can grow up to 8 feel tall.

‘C. hooperiana’: This variety is a large genus of Central and South American palms and has large dramatic leaves and is a much faster grower.

Diagnosing common problems

• Brown leaf tips: Brown leaves could be from under watering, so make sure that your top inch of soil is just drying out before watering again. Your tips can also brown from low humidity, so try a humidifier or a tray of pebbles and water under your plant base.
• Yellow leaves: Usually a sign of overwatering but can also happen from lack of enough light. Check your watering schedule and soil dampness to see if watering is the cause or move to a spot with more indirect bright light your home.
• Pests: Small pests like spider mites, aphids, mealybugs, whitefly, and scale can be common pests for Parlor Palms, but you can wipe off the leaves with mild soap and water and then spray with an insecticidal soap to keep insects away. Red spider mites or mealy bugs can first be dislodged with a damp cloth if caught early.
• Fungal Infections: Plant diseases like fungal leaf spots can occur from root rot and overwatering, so if you spot fungal growth, remove the affected leaves.
• Stem Cankers: As these are tricky to treat, you can try to prune off affected areas, but it’s possible that the plant won’t be able to bounce back.

The most important thing when choosing an orchid is to pick one that suits your home’s conditions as some thrive under lower or brighter light conditions and varying temperatures. Selecting one that fits your environment is a key to achieving beautiful orchid blooms and growing success.

Related: Learn to Care for Pilea Plants, Parlor Palms, Calathea, Fiddle Leaf Figs, Golden Pothos, Snake Plants, Rubber Trees, Monstera Plants, Christmas Cactus, and String of Pearls Plants.

How Often Should I Water Orchids?

Overwatering is a common mistake in orchid care. Your orchid does not like to sit in soggy water, so after you give it a good drink, let it dry out most of the way before watering again. You can check the moisture level by sticking your finger into the plant at the soil line and once the top few inches of soil feel dry you can water again.

If you don’t allow the plant to fully dry out, it can develop root rot if the soil is too wet and that can kill the plant. It’s best to water earlier in the day so the plant has time to dry out before nightfall. You’ll also want to ensure that no water remains in the crown or the leaf joints of the plant after watering, so tilt your plant to the side over a sink to allow any trapped water to run off.

Although more orchids are killed by overwatering than underwatering, too little water can lead to “accordion growth,” where the leaves will grow with accordion-like pleats.

Containers with drainage holes are essential to keep orchids happy as they will allow excess water to drain out the bottom, so make sure to dump out any excess water left in the saucer after watering.

How Much Sunlight Do Orchids Need?

Most orchids enjoy bright indirect light, so keep them near a sunny area but out of direct sunlight (south or east-facing windows are best).

It’s a good idea to check the light needs of the species you are buying as some enjoy brighter to lower light situations. It is often inadequate light that prevents an orchid from blooming, so paying attention to your variety’s needs is key.

Popular high light orchids: Vanda, Cymbidium, Cattleya, Epidendrum, Dendrobium, and Brassavola orchids all enjoy more light.

Popular medium light orchids: Cattleya, Dendrobium, Phalaenopsis, Paphiopedilum, and Oncidium can thrive in medium light environments.

Popular low light orchids: Phalaenopsis, Miltonia, Paphiopedilum, Oncidium, Dendrobium, Masdevallia, Bulbophyllum, and Encyclia all enjoy low light situations.

Should I Fertilize My Orchid Plant?

For optimal growth, you can use an all-purpose fertilizer diluted to half strength or follow the instructions on an orchid fertilizer once a week during the growing season (spring and summer). You can stop feeding the plant in the winter while the plant’s growth slows, but overall the fertilizer should increase the health and beauty of your plant.

Temperature and Humidity for Orchids

Different types of orchids have varying preferred temperature ranges, but orchids do best between 50° and 90° degrees. They prefer humidity levels from around 40% to 70%.

Orchids are generally pretty happy indoors, but keep orchids away from vents or cold drafts to reduce temperature shock. If you live in USDA zones 5-11, you can keep your orchids outside. Just make sure to bring them in when the nighttime lows drop below 55°.

Since orchids enjoy higher humidity, you can use a humidifier nearby (especially if your air is dry) or you can put some pebbles and water in a tray and simply place your pot on top. Just add water to right below the top of the pebbles and the pot will sit on top of the stones and the water in the tray will evaporate, creating humidity around the plant.

As orchid temperature preference ranges from species to species, your plant will fall into one of the following categories:

• Cool: 60-70° degrees during the daytime and 50-55° degrees at night.
• Intermediate: 70-80° degrees during the daytime and 55-65° degrees at night.
• Warm: 80-90° degrees during the daytime and 65-70° degrees at night.

Pruning Orchids

Different varieties of orchids require slightly different pruning methods, but in general pruning will give the plant more energy to spend on its flowers.

With all pruning, make sure to use clean and sterilized scissors or pruning shears to make your cuts, and remove spent flowers after the blooming cycle or a withered stem as needed so the plant can refocus that energy to making new blooms.

Repotting Orchid Plants

You’ll always want to wait until an orchid is done flowering before repotting. Because they are epiphytes (meaning they are a plant that grows on the surface of another plant) orchids especially don’t want a soggy soil situation, so you need to make sure you have the right soil for your orchid mix.

When choosing soil for your orchid, you’ll want soil that is lightweight and fast-draining to avoid root rot, so usually a mix of items like bark, sphagnum moss, charcoal, perlite, and peat are what makes up an orchid-specific soil mix. Orchids will do much better with this type of soil that promotes good drainage verses a standard potting mix (and make sure to choose a pot with drainage holes to allow excess water to drain away).

To repot an orchid:

1. Soak the roots in water for 10 minutes as this will soften the roots and they will be more flexible during repotting.
2. Carefully remove the orchid from its old container and trim away any dead or wilted leaves and flowers with a sterile cutting tool.
3. Place the orchid in its slightly larger new pot and fill in empty space with fresh new orchid potting medium.
4. Water plant as needed and give it adequate light until roots are established. If the plant is droopy, you can clip it to a stake to keep it upright as it gets stronger.

The best pot options for orchids are:

• Clear plastic pots: The advantage to a clear pot is that the orchid roots can engage in photosynthesis with the incoming light and you can see the roots and the amount of water left in the pot as the soil is darker when wet and lighter as it dries out.
• Terracotta pots: The clay that makes up terracotta pots is more breathable than a glazed ceramic pot so the soil dries out faster.
• Orchid pots: These unique pots have small holes or slits on the side to promote airflow and keep soggy roots at bay.

These clear planters allow you to see water levels and let roots photosynthesize.

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Terracotta pots are made of breathable clay so they dry out quickly and evenly.

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An orchid pot like this has holes or slots designed to let the soil dry out.

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Propagating Orchids

As it is extremely difficult to grow orchids from seeds, division is the best way to propagate your orchid.

1. Carefully remove your orchid from its existing pot.
2. Examine the roots and remove any that don’t appear plump and healthy with a sterile cutting tool.
3. Carefully pull apart the roots to divide the orchid into two plants and place each in a new pot with fresh orchid soil.
4. Water plants as needed and give them adequate light until roots are established. If the plants are droopy, you can clip them to a stake to keep them upright as they get stronger.

How Do I Get My Orchids to Rebloom?

While it varies between species, most orchids bloom at least one time per year and the gorgeous flowers last anywhere from 2-4 months.

Water is very important in getting your orchid to bloom. If your orchid isn’t blooming, try watering more in the spring or in the season right before it’s scheduled to flower. There are also some varieties like the Phalaenopsis orchid that require drops in temperature at night to encourage blooming, so if your nights are warmer than 55° you can place them outside for a few nights to enjoy the cooler air.

Overall, with proper care of your orchid with adequate watering, proper temperature, humidity, fertilizer, and orchid-friendly soil, you should enjoy yearly blooms and pretty green foliage in the off-season.

Different Varieties of Orchids

You’ve got a lot to choose from when it comes to orchids as there are 30,000 wild varieties and over 100,000 hybrids. Not all of these are available at your local flower vendor, but the most popular houseplant varieties are:

• Corsage Orchids (Cattleya): These orchids are native to Costa Rica and are often used for corsages for special occasions. They are also referred to as the “queen orchid” and they come in a large variety of colors and shapes.
• Vanda Orchid (Vanda spp.): Native to Southeast Asia, these orchids enjoy a more humidity and a higher light spot in your house. They can enjoy summer outside before being taking indoors for winter.
• Dancing Lady Orchid (Oncidium): The stunning yellow flowers on this variety looks like a dancer twirling in a skirt. In addition to its striking look, some varieties also have a very fragrant sweet smelling bloom.
• Boat Orchids (Cymbidium): These plants are known for their long-lasting large blooms. They have multiple flower spikes for more blooms and are among the oldest horticultural orchids in the world and have been grown in China for thousands of years.
• Moth Orchids (Phalaenopsis): Often called “the beginner orchid,” these orchids are one of the easier varieties to grow, have thick leaves, long-blooming flowers, and single stalk blooms with thick oval leaves. Flowers are most often pink, white, purple, or a combination of the three colors.
• Cane Orchids (Dendrobium): From southeast Asia, these orchids are popular and one of the largest of the groups. They are split into two groups, hard-caned and soft-caned, are usually have purple or white flowers.

Diagnosing Common Problems

• Drooping or Yellow Leaves: Orchids can experience yellowing leaves when they are getting too waterlogged from overwatering. Try letting the plant dry out almost completely before watering again. This can also be the cause of drooping leaves, but sometimes that’s also a sign that your plant needs a spot with brighter light.
• Pests: Orchids aren’t prone to a lot of insects, but if your plant is invaded by spider mites, fungus gnats, aphids, mealybugs, scale, thrips, or whiteflies, keep some neem oil or some insecticidal soap on hand to combat pests.
• Dropped Buds: If your orchid is dropping their buds before the plant flowers, then you’ll have to do a little detective work to see if the plant is near a draft, has been over or underwatered, needs more humidity, or is near fruits that are giving off ethylene gas.
• Wrinkled Leaves: Leaves that appear wrinkled or shriveled are usually a sign of underwatering, so give your plant a drink and check the water levels often so you aren’t waiting until the plant has been dry for a while before watering again.

These tropical plants are named after Thomas Hoy, an 18th-century botanist, and the Scottish botanist Robert Brown brought them into the western world. They feature beautiful deep green vining foliage, and, if you’re lucky, pink and burgundy star-shaped flowers.

Related: Learn to Care for Pilea Plants, Parlor Palms, Calathea, Fiddle Leaf Figs, Golden Pothos, Snake Plants, Rubber Trees, Christmas Cactus, Orchids, and String of Pearls Plants.

How Often Should I Water Hoya Plants?

Your Hoya plant does not like to sit in soggy water, so after you give it a good drink, let it dry out most of the way before watering again. You can check the moisture level by sticking your finger into the plant at the soil line and once the top few inches of soil feel dry you can water again.

If you don’t allow the plant to fully dry out, it can develop root rot if the soil is too wet and that can kill the plant.

Containers with drainage holes are essential to keep Hoyas happy as they will allow excess water to drain out the bottom, so make sure to dump out any excess water left in the saucer after watering.

How Much Sunlight Do Hoya Plants Need?

Hoyas love bright indirect sunlight, so keep them near a sunny area but out of direct sunlight, as that can lead to vines with leaf burn with scorched or discolored leaves.

While Hoyas can survive in lower light situations, low-light Hoyas tend to grow leggier than those grown near bright light. If the Hoya is placed in an area where the light is too low, the leaves will begin to brown and the plant will stop growing.

Should I Fertilize My Hoya Plant?

For optimal growth, you can use an all-purpose fertilizer on your Hoya during the growing season (spring and summer) when it is starting to grow new leaves. You can feed the plant less in the winter while the plant’s growth slows, but overall the fertilizer should increase the health and beauty of your plant.

Temperature and Humidity for Hoya Plants

The Hoya prefers temperatures between 68°-75°, so generally it will be pretty happy indoors. Keep Hoya away from vents or cold drafts to reduce temperature shock, and if your plants are in an area that drops below 68° they will go into a dormant state and not flower. On the other hand, higher temperatures above 75° may cause the leaves to start to yellow and drop off, so it’s important to try and keep your Hoya in the right temperature zone.

If growing outdoors, the hardiness varies by species and some varieties can live in USDA zones 8-11, but all should be brought in once temperatures drop down below 50°.

As a tropical plant, the Hoya enjoys high humidity around 60%, so you can use a humidifier nearby (especially if your air is dry) or you can put some pebbles and water in a tray and simply place your pot on top. Just add water to right below the top of the pebbles and the pot will sit on top of the stones and the water in the tray will evaporate, creating humidity around the plant. Because of the higher humidity, a bathroom can also be a good spot for Hoyas provided there is enough light there.

Pruning Hoya Plants

Hoyas don’t usually require much pruning, but to keep the plant looking tidy you can always cut off any damaged leaves as needed with a sharp pair of sterilized scissors.

Make sure to not cut any tendrils the plant sends out though as it will fill those with leaves eventually over time.

Repotting Hoya Plants

When choosing soil for your Hoya plant, you’ll want soil that has good drainage to avoid root rot, so you can use either a cactus or succulent potting mix or a general well-draining potting mix with some perlite or orchid bark mixed in (at a 1:1 ratio) for even better water flow. Because they are epiphytes like orchids (meaning they are a plant that grows on the surface of another plant), they especially don’t want a soggy soil situation.

It’s a good idea to replant your Hoya in a slightly bigger pot with fresh soil every 3 years or so in the spring (at the beginning of the growing season) to ensure that the roots have room to keep growing. If you ever see roots growing out the bottom of your pot’s drainage holes, then it’s definitely time to move it to a slightly larger container as soon as spring hits.

Propagating Hoya Plants

For propagation, you can easily use stem cuttings to propagate your Hoya by cutting stems with at least one leaf node and placing the stem into some water or moist soil. Roots will develop over the next few weeks and then you can replant the cutting into a pot with well-draining soil and water as needed as it continues to fully establish its roots.

How Do I Get My Hoya Plant to Bloom?

To encourage Hoya blooms (also called “porcelain flowers”) in the growing season, you’ll want to keep the plant near bright indirect light as Hoyas require a lot of light to bloom. In order to bloom, plants have to have reached maturity, which can take about 3-5 years.

You’ll also want to make sure that when you water your plant, you are doing deep waterings (the water is reaching the roots of your plant) to make sure the roots have enough moisture to produce its cluster of blooms. Don’t forget to fertilize in spring and summer as well with a fertilizer that includes phosphorus and nitrogen as that will encourage the flowers to form.

You’ll also want to use the tips in our humidity section (humidifier near by or base with pebbles and water) to keep the humidity above 40% and coax blooms from your plant.

You can also pinch back the stems right before early spring hits and that can encourage blooms to develop as well.

Planters should not be moved once flower buds appear or it may drop the buds before they bloom.

Different Varieties of Hoya Plants

Hoyas have a vast variety of species and cultivars to choose from, but here are a few of the most popular varieties:

• Krimson Queen: These Hoyas feature pale pink leaves that fade to a beautiful cream color.
• Hoya Obovata: This variety has rounded dark green leaves with silvery speckling.
• Hoya Kerrii: Heart-shaped leaves and sweet fragrant flowers are the pride of this Hoya plant.
• Hoya Australis: Spade-shaped leaves shoot in a more upward fashion on this plant and the leaves are soft to the touch.
• Hoya Compacta: Also called a Hindu Rope Plant due to its curled and twisted leaves that resemble a rope.
• Hoya Carnosa: Also referred to as a Krinkle 8, this plant is a cultivar with 8 dimples on each foliage.
• Hoya Lacunosa: This plant has lance-shaped leaves that are small and bright green with clusters of fuzzy white flowers.

Diagnosing Common Problems

• Leaf Drop or Black Leaves: Hoyas can experience these issues when they are getting too waterlogged from overwatering or being in too cool of a temperature in the winter months. Try letting the plant dry out almost completely before watering again if you suspect overwatering (and make sure it has well-draining soil and a saucer to empty extra water into) or move it to a warmer area of your house between 68°-75° if cooler temperatures are the issue.
• Pests: If your plant is invaded by mealybugs, spider mites, or aphids, keep some neem oil or some insecticidal soap on hand to combat pests.
• Plant Not Flowering: If your mature Hoya isn’t flowering during the growing season, usually lack of light is the first thing to blame. Make sure to move it to an area with bright yet indirect light and check the other items in our flower growth tips to encourage your plant to bloom.
• Wrinkled Leaves: Leaves that appear wrinkled are usually a sign of underwatering so give your plant a drink and check the water levels often so you aren’t waiting until the plant has been dry for a while before watering again.

These popular houseplants are member of the Araceae family and originate from the tropical forests of Southeast Asia and New Guinea. There are over 20 species of plant and hundreds of Aglaonema cultivars that have been bred to showcase variations of leaf patterns and bright colors.

Related: Learn to Care for Pilea Plants, Jade Plants, Parlor Palms, Calathea, Fiddle Leaf Figs, Golden Pothos, Snake Plants, Peace Lilies, Rubber Trees, Spider Plants, Christmas Cactus, Hoya Plants, Orchids, and String of Pearls Plants.

Why are Aglaonema called “Chinese Evergreens”?

The common name of the Aglaonema is “Chinese Evergreen” or “Luck Plant” because in Feng Shui the Aglaonema is believed to bring success, good fortune, and prosperity. Their easy-to-grow quality and beautiful look is supposed to advantageous to a person’s financial potential. They are also perennial plants that don’t lose leaves and hence the evergreen name.

How often should I water Aglaonema?

Aglaonema like moist soil without being too wet (too much water can lead to root rot). Water when the top inch of soil is dry which you can check by sticking your finger directly into the soil to check the moisture level. Although the plant can survive short periods of drought, don’t let the plant dry out all the way if you can help it or your leaves may suffer. However, if your plant is in a lower light area, you can let several inches of dirt dry out between waterings.

Like most plants, you’ll need to water more in the growing season (spring to fall) and you can taper off watering to a less frequent schedule in the winter. It’s best to use a pot with a drainage hole and saucer if possible so excess water will drain out into the saucer.

Also, plants that are in sunnier locations tend to dry out faster, so those in brighter indirect light will need more compared to those in low light situations.

How much sunlight do Aglaonema need?

Overall, the Aglaonema prefers medium to bright indirect sunlight but can be happy in many lighting conditions (one reason it’s an easy care houseplant). While too much direct sunlight can lead to leaf burn, the Aglaonema can tolerate varying light conditions based on the variety.

Darker green leafed Aglaonema can handle lower light conditions better than the lighter hued varieties, so keep your Aglaonema in brighter indirect light if its leaves are a lighter color. Rotate your plant every so often to ensure even growth.

If you are taking your plant outside for the warmer weather and bright light, expose it to the new level of light slowly over a few days. Keep it outside in a shaded area to avoid direct exposure and leaf burn.

Should I fertilize my Aglaonema?

It’s a good idea to fertilize your Aglaonema once a month to encourage growth during spring and summer. You can use a general purpose houseplant fertilizer at half strength during the warmer growing season in the spring and summer months and skip fertilizing in the winter months when the growth is much slower.

Temperature and Humidity for Aglaonema

For Aglaonema, 65° to 80° degrees Fahrenheit is the ideal temperature so they are generally very happy inside the house year round. They won’t do well, however, if it drops below 55° degrees, so keep them away from cold drafts and bring them inside if you are experiencing lower temperatures.

Since Aglaonema come from a more humid environment, they thrive at a high humidity level. You can add more humidity to your home with a humidifier or you can put some pebbles and water in a tray and simply place your pot on top (make sure the water level sits below the top of the pebbles). The pot will sit on top of the pebble tray and the water in the tray will evaporate and create humidity around the plant.

Bathrooms are a great spot for Aglaonema (as long as it has the proper light for them) as they are a more humid environment.

Pruning Aglaonema

You won’t need to do much pruning on your Aglaonema plant. Just use sharp scissors or pruning shears to remove dead leaves or stems as they appear to keep your plant looking tidy.

If your plant is getting too tall and leggy, you can snip the stems back with a sterilized tool (to prevent spreading disease) above the 4th leaf node and they will regrow leaves closer to the base of the plant. It’s best to do this kind of pruning in the spring at the beginning of the growing season.

Potting and Repotting Aglaonema

Pot your Aglaonema with well-draining potting mix (you can add some perlite, peat moss, or sand to the soil for extra drainage) and pots with drainage holes are best for good drainage so excess water will drain away. Some people like to add a layer of lava rocks at the bottom of their pot under the soil to also help the water drain away from the plant’s roots.

Aglaonema are a slower growing variety, but you may still need to repot them every few years. Check in the spring to see if the roots are growing out the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot, and if they are that’s a sure sign the plant is starting to become root bound. Simply move the plant to a slightly larger pot with well-draining soil and water thoroughly.

Propagating Aglaonema

To propagate your Aglaonema, you can either divide the plant or grow a new plant from stem cuttings and the best time to do this is during the growing season.

Propagate by division:

• Remove the plant from its pot by loosening the soil with a trowel.
• Shake off excess dirt and gently separate the roots and plant into two halves.
• Plant each half into a pot a little bigger than the root ball that’s filled with well draining soil. Water thoroughly and keep on the moist side until roots are stronger.

Propagate by stem cuttings:

• Use a clean cutting tool to snip off a healthy stem that is several inches long.
• Place the stem bottom into a glass of water and place in a bright indirect light location.
• In about a month, roots will form and you can plant your new plant into a small pot of well draining soil and keep moist until roots are established.

Related: How to Propagate Plants

Should I remove the flowers on my Aglaonema?

While not that pretty to look at, Aglaonema can produce flowers that tend to hide among the foliage (so you may not even know they are there). The “flower” is actually an inflorescence (a stem with a group of flowers) usually looks more like a distorted leaf than a traditional flower. Flowers usually consist of a green or white hood with a white spath coming out from the hood.

There is a bit of a debate whether or not to cut the flowers that appear on Aglaonema, but since removal doesn’t hurt the plant and the flowers aren’t much to look at, it’s fine to snip them off with a clean cutting tool as they appear. Just make sure to only cut the flower off and not the original leaf it’s coming out from.

Different varieties of Aglaonema

Green Papaya: This beautiful variety has green lush leaves with papaya colored veins.

Frasher: This variety has dark green leaves with a striking cream variegation.

Pseudobracteatum: This is a cultivar with silver-green patterns spread within dark green edges.

Red Zircon: This eye-catching plant features bright red leaves tinged on the edges with a thin line of dark green.

White Rajah: Bright white veins pop against a lush green for this popular variety.

Silver Bay: This variety boasts a stunning silver middle that is edged with dark green.

Maria: These leaves are accented with silver on a dark green leaf.

Wishes: This beautiful cultivar has dark green leaves speckled with bright pink dappling.

Diagnosing Common Problems

While Aglaonema are generally easy to care for, you may run into some of these common houseplant issues:

• Pests: Aglaonema are not susceptible to bugs, but some common pests are scale, mealybugs, aphids, and spider mites. Treat as needed with neem oil or insecticidal soap to keep bugs under control.
• Burned Leaves: Your plant may be getting too much sunlight, especially if direct sunlight is hitting your plant. Move to less direct light.
• Brown Leaves: Tips of the leaves turning brown can mean the plant is either getting too much light or it may not be responding well to the chemicals in your tap water (fluoride and chlorine especially). Try watering with filtered water or leave your tap water out overnight before watering as that decreases the levels of chemicals.
• Leaf Curling: If you find that your leaves are curling, try increasing the humidity around the plant or placing a tray with water and pebbles under the plant to increase humidity. Leaves can also curl from under watering or from changes in temperature, so try watering more often and check for any cooling or heating vents near the plant.
• Yellow Leaves: Leaves that turn yellow are usually a sign of overwatering. Let the plant dry out until almost fully dry and then water again, making sure at least the top inch of soil is dry before watering again.
• Leaf Color Loss: If you notice your plant is losing color or vibrancy of its leaves, it may be getting too much direct sunlight that is scorching and burning the leaves. Try moving the plant to a location where it gets indirect light rather than full on sun.
• Root Rot: While these plants aren’t susceptible to disease, root rot can be deadly for these plants. Too much water will actually drown the roots, so make sure to have a drainage hole in your planter and use a well-draining potting mix.

These low-maintenance plants are great for beginners and garnered popularity during the Victorian era which shows you how long they’ve been a favorite indoor plant of the more modern household.

These easy plants also have the amazing ability to purify the air, and on average, one 6″ pot size plant can remove volatile organic compounds (VOCs) in the air from up to 100 feet around the plant. The plant can reach up to 10′ high outside, but will cap out between 3-5′ when grown indoors.

Related: Learn to care for a Jade Plant, Money Tree, Parlor Palms, Peace Lilies, Chinese Money Plants, Calathea, Spider Plants, Fiddle Leaf Figs, Aglaonema-Chinese Evergreen, Golden Pothos, Snake Plants, Rubber Trees, Christmas Cactus, Orchids, and String of Pearls Plants.

Why are Dieffenbachia called “Dumb Cane Plants”?

Throughout the plant, the leaves, stems, and roots of the Dieffenbachia all contain raphide toxins (needle-like crystals) that can numb/swell/burn the mouth when consumed, causing confusion and rendering the person unable to talk.

While the name has fallen out of use for derogatory reasons, the sap should be avoided and precautions taken when caring for the plant. For this reason, it’s advised to use gloves when pruning the plant and to be very cautious owning this plant if small children or pets are present in the home.

How often should I water my Dieffenbachia?

Since this is a tropical plant, it wants a bit of a wetter environment to mimic the daily rains of the tropics. You’ll want to keep the soil lightly moist without fully drying out (you can stick your finger in the soil to check the moisture level), but avoid constant soggy soil as that will lead to root rot.

You can cut back a bit on watering in lower light as it will take longer for the water to evaporate, so expect to water a plant in a sunnier location more often. It’s best to use a pot with drainage holes and a saucer and empty out excess liquid in the saucer after each watering.

How much sunlight do Dieffenbachia Plants need?

While the natural habitat of the Dieffenbachia is more low light under trees, these beauties can also handle medium to bright indirect sunlight situations as well. While the plant prefers more indirect filtered light in the spring, summer, and fall, it can handle direct sunlight in the winter (although direct light during the rest of the year can burn the leaves).

Rotate your plant every so often to keep it balanced as it will reach for the sun as it grows. Some cultivar varieties like like Tropic Snow, Tiki, and Camille thrive under bright light so look for those if in a sunnier location.

Temperature and humidity for Dieffenbachia

The Dieffenbachia prefers temperatures between 65°-75°, so generally it will be pretty happy indoors. Keep Dieffenbachia away from vents or cold drafts to reduce temperature shock, and if your plants are in an area that drops below 60° they will sustain some leaf damage (so bring them indoors at that temperature if you keep them as outdoor plants).

As this is a tropical plant, it enjoys high humidity around 40%-50% so you can use a humidifier nearby (especially if your air is dry) or you can put some pebbles and water in a tray and simply place your pot on top. Just add water to right below the top of the pebbles and the pot will sit on top of the stones and the water in the tray will evaporate creating humidity around the plant.

Should I fertilize my Dieffenbachia?

Dieffenbachia plants do benefit from a diluted nitrogen-rich 20-20-20 fertilizer (dilute to half-strength) given every 4-6 weeks during the growing season of spring, summer, and fall. You can feed the plant less in the winter while it’s more dormant, but overall the fertilizer should increase the health and beauty of your plant.

Pruning Dieffenbachia Plants

To keep your Dieffenbachia healthy, you can prune your plant by cutting off any damaged or brown leaves to encourage new leaves to grow. Just use sharp scissors or pruning shears to remove dead leaves or stems as they appear to keep your plant looking tidy. Lower weak leaves can be removed as it grows as well to create more of a palm plant appearance.

You can also cut the top of the plant off if it’s becoming too tall and new growth will appear.

Remember to wear gloves when pruning because the plant’s sap can cause adverse reactions to the skin and throat.

Repotting Dieffenbachia Plants

To keep your Dieffenbachia from getting root bound, repot your new plant into planter about 2″ larger as needed. To see if it’s time to move to the a bigger planter, check the roots at the bottom of the pot to see if they are starting to grow out the drainage holes. If they are, that means the plant definitely needs more room for the roots to spread out and it’s time to move to a bigger pot.

You may not need to repot your Dieffenbachia as frequently in lower light settings but brighter areas will grow the plant faster and will need more frequent repotting. It’s best to use a planter with drainage holes and a saucer to ensure proper drainage, and pair that with a well-draining potting mix (peat moss and perlite can be ideal for Dieffenbachia).

Make sure to wear gloves when repotting to avoid getting the plant’s sap on your skin and repot in early spring when possible.

Propagating Dieffenbachia Plants

Making sure to wear protective gloves for any propagating, you can divide the plant by root division by dividing offsets with a sterilized cutting tool (so you don’t spread disease to the plant). Dip into a rooting hormone (optional but helpful) and repot your divided plants in separate containers with well-draining soil and water well.

To propagate from stem cuttings, use a clean cutting tool to cut a healthy stem right above where it offshoots from a main stem. Place the cut end in a few inches of water (remove any lower leaves that may sit in the water) and place in an indirectly sunny spot. Change the water every 3-5 days until healthy roots appear and then pot in soil and water well.

Related: How to Propagate Plants

How to get Dieffenbachia to bloom

Similar to the Peace Lily, it can be quite difficult to get a Dieffenbachia to show its small white spike-shaped flower. If you want to give it a try, place your plant outdoors in the warmer months in bright indirect light and there’s a chance you may see it’s stubborn bloom. If you are in USDA zones 11 or 12, there’s a higher chance of flowering than other climates.

Different types of Dieffenbachia

There are many variations of Dieffenbachia with the more common varieties being:

• Dieffenbachia Seguine: The most popular Dieffenbachia species, it features dark green leaves with creamy colored veins.
• Dieffenbachia ‘Camo’: This variety has a camouflage appearance with chartreuse leaves, cream veins and dark green flecks.
• Dieffenbachia ‘Tiki’: This is a great choice for lower light areas as it tolerates less sun more easily. This plant has more silver leaves with accents of green and white.
• Dieffenbachia ‘Panther’: This plant features longer green leaves with silver or creamy white colored veins. Tends to have a fuller appearance due to bushier leaves.
• Dieffenbachia ‘Compacta’: Also a fuller looking variety, this plant has creamy leaves with specks of darker green throughout.
• Dieffenbachia ‘Tropic Snow’: A striking variety, this plant has dark green leaves with white veins and is also more tolerant of low light situations.
• Dieffenbachia Maculata ‘Camille’: The Camille has silvery leaves dappled with green and white.
• Dieffenbachia ‘Snow Queen’: The Snow Queen has lighter yellow colored leaves with white veins and green edges.
• Dieffenbachia ‘Rudolph Roehrs’: This species shows off light yellow leaves with green spots and white colored veins.

Diagnosing common problems

• Pests: Spider mites are a common problem for this plant (and you can also get scale, aphids, and mealybugs too). Treat with a horticultural oil as pests appear and check the undersides of your leaves for bugs as well.
• Yellow Leaves: This can be a sign of both overwatering and under watering. If you stick your finger in the soil and it’s very dry, the plant is probably under watered, and if the dirt is very wet you are probably overwatering. If the soil is wet, allow the plant to dry out until almost dry and then water again. Prune off yellow leaves.
• Drooping Leaves: Leaves can droop from both too much and too little sunlight. If your plant is in a low light area, try a brighter spot for a bit, and if it’s getting a lot of sun, move it to a slighter lower light area. Leaves can also droop if the plant is under watered or is near a draft or cold spot, so keep an eye on that as well.

Money Plants are a great beginner plant as they are easy to care for, kid- and pet-friendly, and they are natural air purifiers as they remove indoor toxins like benzene, formaldehyde and trichloroethylene to improve indoor air quality.

The plant originally comes from the swamplands of places like Mexico in central and northern South America, although it can be found in Asia now as well. The leaves are a cross between a tree and a palm, and as a tree, this plant can grow up to 8 feet tall indoors.

Related: Learn to care about Chinese Money Plants, Parlor Palms, Jade Plants, Peace Lilies, Dieffenbachia, Calathea, Spider Plants, Fiddle Leaf Figs, Aglaonema-Chinese Evergreen, Golden Pothos, Snake Plants, Rubber Trees, Orchids, Christmas Cactus, and String of Pearls Plants.

Why are Money Trees considered lucky?

Chinese culture and feng shui consider the Money Tree lucky due to features like it’s overall coin-shaped greenery and the five stalks braided together represent the five elements of feng shui: water, fire, earth, metal, and wood.

The tree is often placed in areas like the home or business where positive energy and good fortune are sought. The base of the tree forms a circle which is said to represent heaven, and the trunk of the tree represents man, and both combined ward off bad luck.

How often should I water a Money Tree?

Money Plants like to be watered more frequently than some other plants, but they don’t like to be soaking wet. Check at the soil line for dampness by sticking your finger in the dirt and only water when the top 2-4″ of soil feel dry. You’ll want well-draining soil so you don’t end up with root rot, so make sure your soil has good drainage (pots that don’t have holes in the bottom will keep in excess water rather than letting it drain out).

A good tip is to water until you see water coming out the drainage holes, stop, and then discard the extra water in your plant saucer. You’ll end up watering more in sunnier locations in your home, and less in darker areas.

How much sunlight do Money Trees need?

Bright, indirect light is best for money trees so placing it near a sunny window is best. Avoid direct sunlight on the tree as that can burn the glossy green leaves. While the plant can adjust to lower light, too little light may lead to yellowing leaves and slow growth.

Since this plant is a tree that you’ll want to keep its even shape, rotate the plant every few weeks to keep it from growing lopsided as it reaches for the sun as it grows.

Should I fertilize my Money Tree?

For optimal growth, you can use an all-purpose fertilizer on your Money Tree during the growing season (spring and summer) when it is starting to grow new leaves. Add 1-2 times a month with a general fertilizer mixed at half strength, and make sure the soil is damp before adding the fertilizer.

Temperature and humidity for Money Trees

Money Trees are a tropical plant so they are happiest in environments between 65° and 85°. Humidity preferences for the tree is around 50% so you can have a humidifier nearby (especially if your air is dry) or you can put some pebbles and water in a tray and simply place your pot on top. Just add water to right below the top of the pebbles and the pot will sit on top of the stones and the water in the tray will evaporate, creating humidity around the plant.

You can also place several plants close together to have them benefit from the transpiration of the other trees. If you want to grow your Money Tree outside, stick to partial shade and bring the plant back inside if temperatures dip below 50°.

Pruning Money Trees

To keep your Money Tree healthy, you can prune your tree by cutting off any damaged or brown leaves to encourage new leaves to grow. Just use sharp scissors or pruning shears to remove dead leaves or stems as they appear to keep your plant looking tidy.

Pruning the lower leaves of the plant will encourage the leaves at the top to grow and help the tree keep its rounded shape at the top.

Repotting Money Trees

To keep your Money Tree from getting root bound, repot your new plant into a planter about 2″ larger than the previous when spring hits. To see if it’s time to move to a bigger planter, check the roots at the bottom of the pot to see if they are starting to grow out the drainage holes. If they are, that means the plant definitely needs more room for the roots to spread out and it’s time to move to a bigger pot.

You may not need to repot your Money Tree as frequently in lower light settings but brighter areas will grow the plant faster and will need more frequent repotting. It’s best to use a planter with drainage holes and a saucer to ensure proper drainage, and pair that with a well-draining potting mix.

Propagating Money Trees

To propagate your Money Tree, you can grow a new plant from cuttings in early summer. To properly create your new plant, you need to:

• Cut a 4″ long stem cutting of a healthy branch that has active new nodes growing the segment.
• Place the segment into a bowl or cup of water, just keeping the bottom of the stem underwater (you should first remove any lower leaves that would be submerged in the water).
• Once roots have developed, you can move your plant to a small pot with well-draining potting soil.
• If you want a braided tree, wait for three new propagations to develop, add them to the same pot, and gently braid them together and keep them secure with a ribbon at the top until they fully grow together.

Related: How to Propagate Plants

Diagnosing common problems

• Yellow or Brown Leaves: This can be a sign of both overwatering and underwatering (frustrating, right?!). If your leaves are also curling and looking slightly withered, the plant is probably underwatered, and if the dirt never fully dries out to the touch and the trunk is soft, you are probably overwatering.
• Mushy Stems: If the stems or trunk are getting soft, you are overwatering your plant. Cut back on watering and let the plant fully dry out before watering again.
• Leggy Branches: If your stems are getting longer and longer, but there’s no new buds and leaves growing on your plant, you may need a location with more light and a bit of fertilizer (if it’s spring or summer) to give it a boost.
• Leaf Droppage: Plants don’t like to be moved often, so it’s best to pick a good spot and stick with it to keep it happy. If you do need to move it, you may see some leaf droppage but it should adjust to the new space if there is adequate light there as well.
• Pests: Money Trees can deal with bug infestations, so keep some neem oil on hand to deal with mealybugs and scale and some insecticidal soap to combat spider mites.

While I’ve definitely killed a plant or two in my lifetime, it’s all part of the process. I’ve had years of personal experience and am even happy to report that all of my house plants are thriving now! Those hard lessons I learned early on as a plant person even gave me a better understanding of how to properly care for each one. 

Ahead, check out my list of the best house plants, from Snake Plants to Money Trees and everything in between!

My Top Picks: 

1. Best House Plants for Beginners: Pothos – $24.70 at Home Depot, Monstera – $59 at West Elm
2. Best House Plants for Low Light: Snake Plant – $48 at the Sill, ZZ Plant – $36.97 at Home Depot
3. Best House Plant for Bright Light: Money Tree – $33.50 at Amazon
4. Best Indoor Plant for Medium Light: Areca Palm Tree – $41.05 at Amazon
5. Best Pet-Friendly House Plant: Boston Fern – $19.97 at Home Depot

Reviews of The Best House Plants of 2024

1. Best House Plants for Beginners : Pothos

If you’re new to house plants, the thought of keeping them alive and appropriately cared for may be a little overwhelming. Thankfully, there are a few plants that are particularly forgiving, like the Pothos. This climbing vine isn’t finicky when it comes to light or water and is quite pretty when the leaves get long enough to drape over a bookshelf. They’re easy to care for, and if you decide you’d like to add a few more to your collection, they’re easy to propagate.

2. Monstera 

Another easy-to-care-for plant, Monsteras have beautiful and distinct leaves that sprawl out, making them statuesque and art-like. They’re a little bigger than the pothos, which is good if you’re looking for something larger as a novice plant parent. Whether you use them as inspiration for a painting or just as decor, you really can’t go wrong with this majestic house plant. With proper, consistent care, they can even grow up to 66 feet tall!

3. Best Indoor Plants for Low Light: Snake Plant 

Snake Plants are very hardy, low-maintenance, low-light plants that take up a lot of vertical space. I love these plants because they’re some of the easiest to care for! They don’t like to be overwatered and will do well in dim and dark areas, so you can set ‘em and forget ‘em. A smaller Snake Plant would work well as an office plant or on a desk, while a larger snake plant could fill out a large pot in the living room or bedroom. Regardless, this stylish plant won’t miss.  

4. ZZ Plant

ZZ plants are a great option for a low-light space, and they’re very easy to care for, only needing to be watered about 2 times a month. They’ve been a favorite of mine for a long time! Similarly to Snake Plants, they look great in a wide variety of spots around the house and add a nice bit of greenery. Plus, they made Elsie and Emma’s list of the best indoor house plants since they’re such a breeze to take care of while still maintaining a pretty look. 

5. Best Indoor Plant for Bright Light: Money Tree

If you have a space in your home that gets a lot of indirect, bright light, the Money Tree is one of the best indoor house plants. These plants are thought to bring good fortune to those who have them, and they also have a wonderful silhouette and add some positive energy to any space they’re in. When it comes to care, as long as you place it next to a window and don’t water it too often (they like to dry out between waterings), your Money Tree will be good to go!

6. Best Indoor Plant for Medium Light: Areca Palm Tree

Placing an Areca Palm tree in your home will bring tropical vibes and energy. This is a good option for less direct sun and takes up a good amount of space since their leaves arch outwards. They can thrive indoors or outdoors and do best with medium light, making them suitable for porches or window sills. I personally love how their feathery fronds offer an exotic flair to any room!

7. Best Pet-Friendly House Plant: Boston Fern 

The Boston Fern is a nice wide plant that can be hung up for some aerial greenery. If you’d prefer to keep it closer to the ground, it also fills out a space nicely. Best of all, it’s a great pick for pet-friendly homes since it’s totally non-toxic. They also thrive in high-humidity environments, which means they’re a great plant for a bathroom. 

8. Best Flowering House Plant: Orchid 

Orchids have a reputation for being a little finicky, but with an understanding of the proper care for one of these beautiful plants, they’re well worth it. They’re more like an art piece than a plant and will have your house guests fawning over them. They also make for an excellent housewarming gift for friends, family, and loved ones.

9. Best Large House Plant: Fiddle Leaf Fig 

If you want a large plant to take up a decent amount of space in your home, a Fiddle Leaf Fig Tree could be just the thing. These indoor trees are not only big, but handsome and trendy as well. They work in a variety of locations and are an especially nice backdrop accessory for Zoom calls. The only caveat with them is that they are a little more challenging than some of the plants on this list, so if you’re considering taking one of these on, make sure to check out how to care for them. 

10. Best Succulent: Aloe Vera

Aloes might be the most versatile plant on this list. Their leaves can be broken off to treat small burns to the skin or as a hair mask (I’ve used them since I was a child, and my mom showed me how to use them!). Or, if you’re looking for some fun, you can use aloe to make this delicious Aloe Margarita. Beyond their versatility, though, these plants are easy to care for and, if taken care of properly, can propagate on their own. 

11. Best Fake House Plant: Fake Hoyas

If you have some anxiety about bringing in a living plant to your home, that’s totally fine! Live houseplants aren’t for everyone. This beautiful faux Hoya plant will add the greenery you’re looking for without the responsibility or upkeep required for live plants. If you’re someone who travels a lot or just need a lowkey office plant, this one’s for you. And if you decide you want all your plants to be THIS easy to care for, here’s a list of some of the most convincing faux plants out there!

12. Best for Those Who Want a Challenge: Juniper Bonsai Tree 

Maybe you’ve already conquered the art of household plants and are looking to up your plant game. I’m personally not brave enough to take on a Bonsai, but I know that many people relish the challenge and the mindful practice of tending to them. They require a lot of attention but yield incredible results with beautiful miniatures of trees that are truly beyond the average house plant. It isn’t easy, but those who are bold enough to take on this project will definitely reap the benefits.

Why You Can Trust Us

Hi! I’m Betsey, a freelance writer with a ton of experience taking care of house plants. I worked with Elsie and Emma of A Beautiful Mess, a place where they love sharing what they’ve learned while building their homes and lives. Their expertise in home decor and DIY has helped them develop a deep understanding of what it means to create a happy and unique space. 

It can be hard to trust what you read online, but with our own personal experience, we can be a reliable guide you look to for anything home-related. This list of the best house plants was curated after years of learning about plant care. Hopefully, our advice and insight can save you some time, energy, and money and give you the joy that comes with caring for houseplants!

What to Know About the Best House Plants

Things to Consider When Choosing a House Plant

While many think that owning and caring for a plant is simple, it’s important to remember that they are living things that require maintenance and care. Each plant has a specific metabolism that is unique to them, and to put all plants on the same exact diet of water and sunshine might cause more harm than good. 

Here are some things to consider when picking a good plant for your space! 

Maintenance

When it comes to keeping your plants happy, the two most important things are light and water. These are the basics that keep them growing and thriving. Making sure they get enough of both is key. Depending on the house plant you choose, there might be a few other things to keep in mind, like pruning, fertilizing, and replanting. 

Pruning and trimming can help your plant grow better and might be needed if it’s getting too big for your space. Replanting is important, too — when a plant outgrows its pot, it needs a bigger one to keep growing comfortably. If you don’t replant, it can become root-bound, which stops it from growing well. Always check out the care tips for your plant before guessing what it needs.

Sunlight

Sunlight is a critical component of plant health. Some plants thrive with a lot of sun, and others do not. To avoid damage, it is important to note what your plants prefer. It’s really all about finding the right balance and being in tune with your plants. 

If you notice bleached or very brown brittle leaves, this could be a sign of too much sun. Often, these leaves will need to be trimmed or removed. Keeping an eye on your plants and paying close attention to changes in color, texture, or appearance could indicate something gone awry. If the sunlight component is too overwhelming or your home doesn’t get enough natural light, it may be worth investing in artificial lights or a hydroponic planter that automatically turns the lights on and off.

Watering

Similarly to sunlight, water can make or break a plant’s ability to thrive. Not enough water and the plant can dry up and too much water can lead to root rot. Neither of these issues is pleasant, and learning about the needs of the plant when you buy it can save some headaches for both you and your plant. 

If you struggle to remember to water your plants, consider investing in a hydroponic planter like this Aerogarden. This type of planter is great for a little indoor herb garden and can fit nicely on a countertop. 

Your Environment 

Your needs as a plant owner will vary, and it’s necessary to think about this before you buy the right plant. Do you have pets? Maybe you live in an area with more air pollution, or you travel often. Are you looking for a new hobby? All of these components of plant ownership can be helpful information in deciding which plants are best for you. 

What is the Best Indoor Plant for Home?

The best indoor plant for a home is one that fits your lifestyle and needs. As mentioned above, there are so many great low-maintenance plants out there that would be a great fit, like Pothos, ZZ Plants, Snake Plants, and Monsteras. Each plant has a distinct style and design that you can choose as a way to amplify your personality and decor. Ultimately, the best indoor plant is based on personal preference and for you to decide! 

What Indoor Plant Purifies the Air the Most?

Having plants around the house is always good for purifying the air and providing fresh oxygen! Remember in science class when you learned about how plants take the air we breathe out and turn it into oxygen for us to breathe in? 

While all plants use that process, there are some plants that are especially good at purifying the air we breathe: Pothos, aloe, and snake plants are all great at taking in benzene, formaldehyde, and other pollutants. These plants aren’t purifying the air at a fast enough rate to get rid of any air purifiers you may have, but still worth keeping around for a little boost of green and beauty.

What is the Easiest House Plant to Keep Alive?

I’d say the two easiest house plants to keep alive are Pothos and Snake Plants. I’ve gone on vacation for a month and left these two plants in low light conditions with no water and have come back to them mostly unphased. I’ve actually had to double check that my snake plant was real because it looked so good!

These plants are very easy to keep alive especially if you travel or have a busy life with little time for watering. The next best option would be convincing faux plants or dried flowers that don’t require any upkeep.  

Related Posts

• Once you have your plants picked and sorted, add some personal touches to them with these unique DIY planters and pots.
• If you’re looking to take some planting outside, see how Elsie set up her potting station.
• Maybe store-bought flowers are the main sources of flora in your house. Here are some ideas on how to style and arrange daffodils and tulips.

Prices were accurate at the time of publication. 

Related: How to Propagate Plants, Best Porch Plants, Air Plant Care

Jade Plant

Jade plants are a popular variety of succulent houseplants. With proper care, these plants can live for 50 or even 100 years. Jade enjoys being in bright light, about 4-6 hours of it a day. Younger jade plants should be in indirect light, but more mature plants can handle some direct sunlight. 

Jade plants are said to bring good luck. Place your jade plant indoors in the southeast direction of your hall or living room to welcome wealth luck. Learn more about jade plant care.

Aloe Vera Plant

I love these plants because when I was child my mom taught me to break a piece off and use it for sunburns and burns. They are easy to keep alive, beautiful and useful. Aloe plants enjoy extended sunlight (a minimum of six hours per day) and should be placed by a window where they can bask in the sun.

ZZ Plant (Zamioculcas zamiifolia or Zanzibar gems)

I love these. They are beautiful and extremely easy to care for. They’re a nice alternative to a snake plant if you need something that’s sort of spiky and vertical for a certain spot in your home. These plants thrive in medium to bright indirect light for at least six hours each day.

Pilea (Chinese Money Plant)

Pilea plants love light. They do best in bright, indirect sunlight. Sitting by a window is a good choice for these plants. Learn to care for a Chinese Money Plant.

Boston Fern

This fern plant thrives in indirect sunlight. They don’t like to be directly in the sun, but they also won’t grow in total shade.

Golden Pothos (Devil’s Ivy)

This plant is super common and easy to find almost anywhere. They are beautiful and easy to keep alive! A golden pothos is an excellent choice for a first plant. Learn to care for a Golden Pothos.

Elephant Ear Plant (Colocasia)

Known for their heart-shaped leaves, these plants love full, indirect sun for at least six hours each day. Choose a pot that is at least 18 inches in diameter, or one gallon.

English Ivy (Hedera helix)

The English Ivy is flexible and can thrive in most lighting conditions. Its favorite is bright light. This plant loves humidity, so misting it daily is a great way to keep it thriving.

String of Pearls

String of Pearls is one of my favorite plants for its beautiful appearance. It’s a unique trailing succulent that looks like a string of peas. They enjoy a bright and sunny location in the home. Learn to care for String of Pearls.

Rubber Plant

A Rubber plant is a beautiful houseplant that I have had great luck keeping alive. A well lit area of your home is crucial to keeping this plant alive. These plant leaves need to be dusted with a damp cloth once in a while. Learn to care for a Rubber Tree.

Peace Lily (Spathiphyllum)

A Peace Lily is easy to care for and blooms flowers starting in early summer. Ideally, peace lilies enjoy bright indirect sunlight, and are a good plant to choose if you have a low light area as they also do well in shade to partial shade. How to Care for a Peace Lily.

Monstera

This plant is very versatile in what lighting conditions it requires. Monsteras like bright indirect light. They can adjust to medium light, but might get leggy in that environment. So, I placed her in a room that has large west-facing windows. How to care for a Monstera plant.

Fiddle Leaf Fig

If you get a fiddle leaf, then find a window with ample light. Be sure that it is bright, indirect light. Don’t stick it in a corner away from the sunlight. These are a type of ficus tree and are native to a tropical environment. How to care for Fiddle Leaf Figs.

Aglaonema (Chinese Evergreen)

Aglaonema plants are known for their hardiness and adaptability to a variety of conditions. They are able to thrive in both bright light and low light situations. These easy houseplants are adaptable even to spaces with little light. These are a great choice for an office or rooms with less natural light.

Parlor Palm (Chamaedorea elegans)

Parlor Palms grow best indoors with bright, indirect sunlight. They can also thrive as a low-light plant. They help to purify the air in your home as well.

Snake Plant

I love snake plants. I like the look of these and they will survive practically in the dark, but also tolerate the sun. They are adaptable to nearly any environment. Learn to care for a snake plant.

Cacti

Cacti are easy to care for and make great indoor plants. They require less frequent watering than most plants and they thrive in medium to high indirect sunlight. Cacti have a growing season from March to September, where they can grow rapidly. I often take my cacti outdoors during the summer and bring them back inside for the winter. It’s best to let them get very dry between waterings.

Spider Plant (Chlorophytum comosum)

We love spider plants. If you are looking for a natural air purifier, you will want to get a spider plant. A recent study indicates that spider plants removed 95% of toxic formaldehyde from the air in a sealed Plexiglass container over a 24-hour period. The spider plant is one of the most popular houseplants. How to care for a Spider Plant.

Calathea Plant (Prayer Plant)

Calathea Plants are easy to care for and present eye catching patterns on their leaves. Calatheas love to be in medium to bright indirect light. They can handle low light situations well, but their color and pattern may not be as vivid as it would be with more light. How to care for Calathea Plants.

Cast Iron Plant

Cast Iron Plants are easy to care for and thrive in low light. They do great in low or medium light and bright light should be avoided.

If you have a favorite indoor plant, we’d LOVE to hear all about it in the comments.

While these evergreen plants are not true lilies (from the Spathiphyllum species), most peace lilies can grow to be between 1-4′ wide and come from the tropical regions of Central and South America. They are a member of the Araceae family and as long as they get enough light, they will produce elegant white blooms starting in the early summer and may continue to bloom throughout the year.

These tropical plants are not happy in the cold, so they can only be grown outside in warmer more humid climates like in USDA Zones 10 and 11. But outside of those hardiness zones we’ll show you how to care for and keep your peace lily happy as an indoor plant.

Related: Learn to Care for Pilea Plants, Calathea, Parlor Palms, Monstera Plants, Aglaonema-Chinese Evergreen, Spider Plants, Fiddle Leaf Figs, Golden Pothos, Jade Plants, Snake Plants, Rubber Trees, Dieffenbachia, Money Trees, Orchids, and String of Pearls Plants.

Why are they called Peace Lilies?

Peace lily plants get their name from the off white flower that is produced on the plant starting in early summer (it’s actually a white leaf surrounding a cluster of tiny flowers on a stalk). The white flowers are reminiscent of white flags of peace, hence the name! People will often gift these plants as a symbol of everlasting life to those facing a loss or hard times.

How often should I water Peace Lilies?

You’ll want to give your peace lily a good full drink when you do water it, but let it dry out in between waterings. You can stick your finger in the top inch of soil to check how damp the soil is and wait until it feels mostly dry before watering again. While they like moist soil, peace lilies are susceptible to root rot from overwatering, so make sure the planter you use has drainage holes and don’t let the plant sit in standing water if there’s water in the draining tray.

Underwatering can also effect peace lilies foliage so keep an eye on the leaves as they will start to droop when it needs some water. So if your plant starts drooping about a week after watering, then you’ll start to get an idea of how often to water.

Peace lilies are sensitive to tap water, so if you can’t use distilled, filtered, or rainwater, then let your tap water sit out overnight and that will allow the chlorine to dissipate.

How much sunlight do Peace Lilies need?

While ideally peace lilies enjoy bright indirect sunlight, peace lilies are a good plant to choose if you have a low light area as they also do well in shade to partial shade.

An east-facing window is a good spot for a peace lily so it can soak up the morning sun, but full mid-day direct sunlight will dry out a peace lily and cause scorching on the leaves. The more bright light a peace lily gets, the more frequently it will flower, so put it in a brighter spot if you want to get the best blooms.

You’ll also want to wipe down your big green leaves occasionally with a wet paper towel as too much dust on the plant’s leaves can inhibit photosynthesis.

Should I fertilize?

Peace lilies don’t need much fertilizer, but you can use a balanced liquid fertilizer (like this 20-20-20 fertilizer) mixed at one quarter strength to fertilize through the growing season (spring and summer) every other month.

Repotting Peace Lilies

Peace lilies don’t mind being a little pot-bound, but if you see roots starting to grow up through the surface or out the bottom drainage holes, it’s time to move it to a bigger pot. Loosen the roots gently with your hands to break them up a bit and that will encourage the roots to spread out.

Choose a pot that is only about 2″ bigger than the current size as too big a pot will hold too much moisture for the plant and promote root rot. While it’s best to re-pot during the growing months of the year (spring and summer), repotting can be done at any time of the year and you’ll want a good soil that combines drainage and moisture retention and you can add in some peat moss or perlite for extra drainage.

Temperature and humidity for Peace Lilies

Ideal indoor temperatures for peace lilies are between 65°F and 75°F and you’ll want to keep them away from drafty doors or windows. If you keep a potted plant outside, make sure to bring it in once temperatures dip into the 50°s.

Being a tropical plant, peace lilies enjoy humidity, so giving them light mistings with a spray bottle will help them feel more at home. You can also place them on top of gravel on a tray and then pour some water into the gravel, which will create humidity around the plant as it evaporates. Just make sure the water level is below the gravel so the plant is not sitting directly in water.

Pruning Peace Lilies

Once a stalk has flowered, that stalk won’t produce any more blooms, so you can cut the stalk off at the bottom with clean scissors or shears (make sure to disinfect your snippers with  isopropyl alcohol between cuts so you don’t spread disease).

Yellowed or shriveled leaves can also be cut off at the base to clean up the appearance of the plant.

Propagating Peace Lilies

You can divide peace lilies into several plants in early spring by removing it from its pot and gently trying to separate the crowns of the plant (you can also use a sharp knife to cut the roots if they won’t separate easily). Be sure to water the plant the night before and brush off the excess soil around the roots so you can see where you are cutting or pulling it apart.

Make sure you get at least two good leaves for each plant with the roots attached before replanting the pieces in their own container with a good soil that combines drainage and moisture retention.

Related: How to Propagate Plants

Can Peace Lilies grow in water?

Peace lilies can be grown in water rather than a traditional soil container. You can grow them in water by:

• Taking it out of its pot and rinsing the soil off the roots with lukewarm water (cut off any roots with signs of root rot).
• Position the plant in a clean glass vase so its roots are touching the bottom.
• Add distilled, filtered, or rainwater to the vase to cover the roots. Make sure it doesn’t go all the way up to the leaves or stems as the water will cause them to rot.
• You can add a few drops of liquid fertilizer and place it in indirect sunlight to help it grow.

To minimize transplant shock, you can also add some soil that the plant was in to the water and then change the water weekly to have less and less soil until it’s all water. This will acclimate it more slowly to the water for a better chance of success.

How to encourage Peace Lilies to bloom:

The elegant white flowers that the lily produces resemble calla lilies and have four stages: budding, blooming, going to seed, and wilting. The buds are slow to open so be patient if it feels like it’s taking a while to bloom. You can encourage blooms by keeping the plant in bright but indirect light and regularly fertilizing during the spring and summer growing season.

The flowers will turn pale green as they age, and once blooms are spent you can simply snip them off with clean sharp scissors or pruning shears.

Too much or too little water can also lead to brown flowers, so keep an eye on your watering and check the soil with your finger to make sure you are watering only when the soil starts to dry out.

Common varieties of Peace Lilies:

‘Sensation‘: This is the largest of all the commercially produced lilies and can grow up to 6 feet tall with foliage up to 20″ long.

‘Mauna Loa Supreme’: This variety is a more popular choice for homes with lance-shaped leaves and a medium size that grows between 3′ and 4′ tall.

‘Little Angel’: While this dwarf lily is the smaller of the popular cultivars, it blooms more prolifically than other species making up for it’s size.

‘Golden Delicious’: This variety features a golden-green color on it’s new growth that makes it a special plant indeed.

‘Power Petite’: Another smaller peace lily, this plant only grows about 15″ tall and grows long lasting flowers.

‘Domino’: A medium-size peace lily with ruffled variegated dark leaves with white streaks.

Diagnosing common problems

• Brown leaf tips: Brown leaves could be from using tap water. Try trimming the brown parts off the leaves if you like (although leaving them doesn’t hurt the plant) and using filtered, distilled, or rainwater instead. Or you can leave out your tap water overnight in your watering can before watering and that will help dissipate the chlorine. Your tips can also brown from low humidity so try a humidifier or a tray of pebbles and water under your plant base.
• Yellow leaves: Usually a sign of overwatering but can also happen from underwatering or just the old age of the leaf. Check your watering schedule and soil dampness to see if watering is the cause or simply snip off the leaf if you think age is the cause.
• Pests: Small pests like spider mites and aphids can bother peace lilies, but you can wipe off the leaves and then spray with an insecticidal soap to keep bugs away.
• Plant not flowering: Peace lilies need a certain amount of light to flower, so you may need to move them to a sunnier spot with bright indirect light to encourage flower growth.
• Green or weak flowers: Green flowers can be a sign of over-fertilization, while weak flowers can mean your plant could use a dose of fertilizer to strengthen the plant a bit (try one that is made for flowering plants).

While we are used to seeing the Poinsettia during the cold months of the year, it’s actually a tropical plant native to Mexico and a member of the Euphorbiaceae family. While it is an indoor plant during the holiday season, in its native area they can grow to shrubs reaching 10 feet tall. There are over 100 different types of cultivars but “Prestige Red” is the most popular one that is seen around Christmas.

The colorful leaves (from white to light pink to bright red) are the plant’s response to shorter sunlight hours in the winter, which is why they don’t bloom all year long. The “flowers” of Poinsettia aren’t actually petals, but types of leaves called bracts, but there are tiny yellow flowers in the center of the bracts (called cyathia) which attract insects and fall off after pollination.

Related: Learn to Care for Christmas Cactus, Jade Plants, Parlor Palms, Pilea Plants, Monstera Plants, Calathea, Spider Plants, Peace Lilies, Fiddle Leaf Figs, Aglaonema-Chinese Evergreen, Golden Pothos, Snake Plants, Rubber Trees, Dieffenbachia, Money Trees, Orchids, and String of Pearls Plants.

How often should I water Poinsettia?

You’ll want to keep the soil moist but not soggy (that can lead to root rot), so feel the top of your soil and once the soil surface starts to feel almost dry it’s time to water again. You can also check the water content by lifting the plant and when it feels lightweight compared to when you watered it, it’s ready for a drink.

Use a pot with drainage holes at the bottom to prevent root rot, or if you like the decorative foil they come in, remove it from the foil and water in the sink replacing it back in the foil once excess water has drained.

How much sunlight do Poinsettia need?

To get adequate sunlight indoors, your Poinsettia required bright indirect sunlight. Keep them where the light is bright near a sunny window but don’t let the light directly hit the plant as full sun can damage the leaves.

Should I fertilize my Poinsettia?

If you are just keeping your plant over the holiday season, then there’s no need to fertilize it. If you are trying to keep it beyond Christmas, you can fertilize it every month with half strength all-purpose fertilizer once you see new growth starting to appear on the plant.

Temperature and humidity for Poinsettia plants

Indoor Poinsettia will do best between 65-70° F and you’ll want to keep them above 50° or you risk damage or them dying due to cold. If you want to decorate your porch with them, you’ll have to live in a place that doesn’t drop below 50° at night. If you are buying one from a store and it’s cold outside, keep it covered with a bag and don’t let it sit in a cold car for hours before taking it inside.

Like most plants, you’ll want to keep your Poinsettia away from areas with big temperature changes, so place them away from outside doors, cold drafts, heating vents, etc.

Since they are a tropical plant, Poinsettias enjoy more humid locations, so you can put a humidifier in the room with them to keep them happy.

Repotting Poinsettia plants

If you are just keeping your plant over the holiday season, you won’t need to worry about repotting it.

If you are trying to keep it alive until the next holiday season, in late spring or early summer you can remove the plant from the old pot and carefully wash the old soil from the roots of the plant. Repot your poinsettia into a larger pot that’s about 2 to 4 inches bigger than the original container. Use a pot with good drainage and choose a soil mix that has a lot of organic matter (like peat moss).

Pruning Poinsettia plants

If your plant has become leggy, it’s best to prune Poinsettias in later winter. Use clean sterilized scissors or shears to prune it back to about 5 inches above the soil line to promote more compact growth.

You can also do a second round of pruning in late May by cutting off 2-3 inches from the tips of the branches to encourage more growth.

You can also prune off faded or dried parts of the plant as needed.

Propagating Poinsettia plants

You can actually propagate Poinsettia plants from cuttings and grow yourself a new plant within a few weeks. To propagate Poinsettia:

• Add potting soil to a small cup or small pot.
• Use pruning shears to cut off a 3-4″ section of an actively growing branch and pinch off the lower leaves leaving the top leaves to provide water for the plant.
• Optional, but you can dip the cut end into a rooting hormone before sticking the cut end into the dirt.
• Once the cut end is planted in the dirt, keep the new plant in a humid area that’s away from direct sunlight. You don’t need to water it as it will pull water from its leaves, but to increase the humidity, you can mist the leaves with water and put a small plastic bag over the cup to encourage it to grow.
• In about four weeks you should notice roots growing from the cutting and you can replant it in a pot with drainage holes and start to water as usual.

How to get Poinsettia to rebloom

If you want to keep your plant alive all year long and see it bloom again next holiday season, you’ll need to give it some extra care as they can be quite finicky and particular.

Start to hold back on your watering in April so that the plant begins to dry out (but not so little water that the stem starts to shrivel) and place it in an area that’s around 60°.

In mid-May, you can prune back the plant to about 4″ stems and repot the plant in a slightly larger pot. Put the plant in a spot with lots of indirect light and start to water it regularly again. As new growth starts to appear, you can begin to fertilize it monthly.

Pinch back the stems once in July and again in August.

In order for the plant to bloom, it needs to have a “short-day” treatment of 10 weeks of 12 hours or less of sunlight each day, so starting in October you’ll have to keep the plant in long nights of total uninterrupted darkness from 5 p.m. to 8 a.m. daily and give it 6-8 hours of bright light during the day.  You can put the plant in a closet or even under a box, anywhere that’s warm but dark! Night temperatures round 60 degrees is the optimal temperature to promote flowering.

Poinsettia’s colorful bracts should start to be a bright color in early December, and although they can be lot of work, it’s a fun experiment to see if you can successfully mimic the darkness it needs to show its true colors.

Diagnosing common problems

• Wilted or curled leaves: The plant probably needs more water. Give it a good watering and see if the leaves perk up within a day or two.
• Leaf loss: Leaf loss can be due to many factors like underwatering, overwatering, too cold, or too dry of a climate. If the soil is dry and the leaves are falling, try watering to see if that restores the plant. If the soil feels wet when they are dropping then you may be overwatering and need to let the soil dry out almost fully between watering. Check to make sure the plant is away from cold areas (like right next to a window or near a door draft) and you can try a humidifier or plant mister if you suspect your air is too dry for the plant.
• Whiteflies: These are the most common pests for Poinsettia so check the undersides of your leaves for a white insect before purchasing to avoid them all together as they are very hard to treat. If you find a few on your plant at home, it’s best to tolerate them over the holiday season and then discard the plant after and look for a whitefly free one next year.
• Lower leaves yellowing: If the bottom leaves of your plant are yellowing and falling off, it may be due to not getting enough light and you may need a sunnier location with more indirect light.